Delhi NCR · Mansingh Road, Lutyens' Delhi
One Mansingh Road — a cream tower behind old trees, 10 minutes' walk from India Gate.
You come in along Mansingh Road, through the part of Delhi that Lutyens drew: roundabouts, flame trees, and low walls with the government of India working behind them. The hotel keeps its distance from the street — a cream tower, arcaded on every floor, set well back behind old trees. Then the doors, and a lobby under 4 pierced-gold ceiling discs, where the temperature drops, the noise stops, and somebody has already started walking toward you.
Ask for a room on the India Gate side and be in it for the last hour of light. You look out at the Lutyens treeline — an unbroken green canopy over a city of 20 million — with the Secretariat domes going soft in the haze at the far end. Inside it is deep blue and gold: a bedhead set into a wall of painted trees, glass lamps either side, and a grey sofa turned to face the room rather than the television.
The hotel has spent 50 years learning the difference between a guest who wants to be recognised and one who very much does not, and it reads that right almost every time. Staff stay for decades; the doorman has probably been here longer than the car you arrived in. Nothing is performed. Everything of consequence in this city happens within a mile of the front door, and a good deal of it has happened in the lobby.
Machan. A tree standing in the well of a double-height room, with tables against a wall of glass looking into the treetops. Open all day, and where the staff eat too.
Captain's Cellar. A vaulted brick cellar under the building, with oak casks for tables. The capital's only serious wine room, and small enough that booking the whole of it for 6 people is reasonable.
The Jiva Spa. Indian therapies, and nobody here uses the word wellness — an abhyanga with 2 therapists working in time, and a steam room that is actually hot. Ask for a late slot; the floor empties after 8.
The garden pool. A long rectangle in the garden, the tower over one side and old trees on the other 3. Heated through the Delhi winter, which is when you would come anyway.
Taj Club. A floor, a lounge and a butler rather than a lounge alone. Club rooms come with airport transfers, a check-in taken sitting down, breakfast in the lounge, and evening canapés substantial enough to count as dinner.
Every room at Taj Mahal, New Delhi looks one of two ways. The India Gate side gives the Lutyens treeline and the Secretariat domes in the haze, and it is the view worth paying for. The other side looks over the pool and the garden — quieter, greener, and better if you are here to work rather than to look. Neither is a bad room. Ask for a side deliberately rather than taking what is assigned.
A Taj Club room is only a little larger than a Luxury Room — the difference is not size. Club access buys a floor with its own lounge, breakfast away from the main restaurant, airport transfers, a check-in taken sitting down, and evening canapés substantial enough to replace dinner. Take it for a 3-night business stay; skip it for 2 nights of sightseeing.
The Signature Suite is the first room with a separate sitting room, and the only one below Presidential level with a balcony. In Lutyens' Delhi, in February, that is the whole argument. Take it if you are receiving anyone in your room, or staying more than 4 nights. Below that, the rooms are excellent and the suite is a luxury rather than a fix.
Everything of consequence in this city happens within a mile of the front door, and a good deal of it has happened in the lobby.
1 Mansingh Road
Lutyens' Delhi
New Delhi, National Capital Territory 110011
India
Rates are quoted for your dates.
Room
33 m² · Sleeps 3
Lutyens' Delhi
The room is 33 square metres on the city side, and the window is the reason to take it. Mansingh Road runs through the only part of Delhi that was drawn before it was built, so you look at roofline and treeline in about equal measure, with almost nothing above 4 storeys. Inside: a king bed, a marble bathroom, and a desk that is a desk rather than a console. There is no lounge access here — that starts one rung up, and if you are not going to use a lounge, do not buy one.
Room
33 m² · Sleeps 3
Lutyens' Delhi
The room is 33 square metres on the city side, and the window is the reason to take it. Mansingh Road runs through the only part of Delhi that was drawn before it was built, so you look at roofline and treeline in about equal measure, with almost nothing above 4 storeys. Inside: two beds, a marble bathroom, and a desk that is a desk rather than a console. There is no lounge access here — that starts one rung up, and if you are not going to use a lounge, do not buy one.
Room
33 m² · Sleeps 3
City or garden
The same 33 square metres as the Luxury Room, on a higher floor, with a key that opens the lounge. It adds breakfast, drinks at 7, somewhere to take a meeting that is not your bedroom, and a desk in the lounge when you want people around you. For 3 days of appointments in Delhi it is the right room. For 2 nights and a wedding at the other end of the city it is not. This one has the king bed.
Room
33 m² · Sleeps 3
City or garden
The same 33 square metres as the Luxury Room, on a higher floor, with a key that opens the lounge. It adds breakfast, drinks at 7, somewhere to take a meeting that is not your bedroom, and a desk in the lounge when you want people around you. For 3 days of appointments in Delhi it is the right room. For 2 nights and a wedding at the other end of the city it is not. This one has two beds.
Room
47 m² · Sleeps 3 + 1 child
India Gate or the garden
A gold-leafed ceiling over 46 square metres, windows onto the Lutyens treeline, and a writing desk turned to the light — which tells you what the room is for. The club floors are high enough that the canopy below is unbroken green, and the lounge is a walk down the corridor rather than a lift ride. Take it if you are in Delhi to work rather than to sightsee.
Suite
73 m² · Sleeps 4 + 1 child
India Gate from most suites, with a balcony
A drawing room in coral and indigo: a long sofa under a gilt-framed miniature, two low tables on a blue floral carpet, and the bedroom through a door rather than across the room. The balcony is the point. It is the only suite below Presidential with one, it faces the treeline, and in February you will take breakfast on it every morning without having planned to.
Suite
67 m² · Sleeps 3
City
The suite is 67 square metres arranged as two rooms rather than one large one, and that is the whole of it: a door you can close between the person on a call and the person asleep. The sitting room takes 4 comfortably and 6 at a push, so the family gathers here before a wedding instead of in the lobby. There is no balcony — that is the Signature Suite, one rung up, and it is the only thing the extra 6 square metres gets you.
Suite
102 m² · Sleeps 4
India Gate
The suite is 102 square metres facing India Gate, which is the one view in Delhi people photograph from a hotel window. A dining table for 6 stands between the sitting room and the bedroom, so this is the suite that hosts rather than the one that sleeps: you can seat a table here without moving furniture. Gold-leaf detailing, a dressing room, and a bathroom with a window.
Suite
165 m² · Sleeps 4 + 2 children
India Gate and the Lutyens treeline
Arched stonework, crystal chandeliers and gold-leaf frescoes: a Jaipur palace on the top floor of a Delhi hotel, done carefully enough to carry the palace's own name. The suite is 165 square metres — a sitting room, a dining room, a 4-fixture bathroom, a walk-in wardrobe, and a study you could genuinely work in. It sleeps 6. Rather more can be entertained, which is usually what it is taken for.
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