Varq

Every savoury course has a vegetarian half — 9 appetisers against 7 of seafood and meat, 8 mains against 7.

Nobody eating vegetarian here is choosing from a shorter list.

The tea is sorted into masala chai, herb tisanes and green. One saffron infusion is steeped overnight in spring water and meant to be drunk with the meal rather than after it.

Dessert is where the kitchen loosens up: jalebi under a fennel and black pepper crust, an apricot mille-feuille, and 3 kulfis served together — palm jaggery, filter coffee, and saffron yoghurt under chocolate.

Read on ↓