Udaipur · Pichola West Bank
Restored royal hunting ground — 50 acres of it, folded around a mile of lakefront.
You pass through a gatehouse and the city simply ends. Udaivilas was built on the old shikar grounds of the Mewar dynasty and it keeps that scale: domed pavilions, reflecting channels, and a wildlife sanctuary at its back where peacocks and wild boar still wander. The drive to the door is long enough that by the time you reach the fountained rotunda, the noise of Udaipur has been replaced by the sound of moving water.
The ground-floor rooms give onto the reflecting pool, and at dusk the whole building begins to double itself in the still water — dome upon dome, arch upon arch, the sky going violet above and below at once. You leave the terrace doors open. The water laps quietly a few steps from the bed, and the palace across the lake begins, one by one, to light its windows.
A butler floor for the suites, a spa that remembers your pressure preference between stays, a fleet of boats for the lake. Nothing is hurried and nothing is missed. The staff-to-guest ratio is high enough that the machinery of the place stays permanently, deliberately invisible.
Mewar, cooked properly
Dinner only, 7 to 10.30 at nightWorth booking
The speciality Indian room, and the one to give an evening to. The kitchen works the Rajasthani repertoire without softening it for visitors: game cooked in the old Mewar way, breads off the tandoor in sequence rather than all at once, and millets, legumes and foraged greens carrying as much of the menu as the meat. The room is hand-painted throughout, under a dome worked in gold and cobalt, and lit low enough that the gold does the rest.
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A Premier Room with Semi-Private Pool opens straight onto the long chain of water that runs the length of the ground floor. You step off your terrace into it — and you share that stretch with the rooms either side of you. It is the most photographed thing here and it is not private. Read the word as well as the picture.
A Luxury Suite with Private Pool has its own pool, walled, with the lake beyond it. What you gain is not a bigger bedroom but water nobody else steps into. If you are travelling as a couple and the pool is the reason you chose Udaivilas, this is the one to book.
The staff-to-guest ratio is high enough that the machinery of the place stays permanently, deliberately invisible.
Haridasji Ki Magri
Mullah Talai
Udaipur, Rajasthan 313001
India
Rates are quoted for your dates.
Room
60 m² · Sleeps 2 + 1 child
Semi-private pool and courtyard
A ground-floor room that opens onto one of the shared reflecting pools: draw back the linen curtain, cross the terrace, and you are in the water. It is 60 square metres, with a domed alcove over the bed, a daybed set into the window, and a bathroom in local marble.
Suite
116 m² · Sleeps 4 + 1 child
Private pool, lake beyond
A walled compound to yourself, at 116 square metres: a domed living pavilion, a bedroom wing, a private pool in a garden of frangipani, and a butler entrance kept out of sight. From the pool's edge the lake and the City Palace line up like a painting composed centuries before the suite was built.
Room
86 m² · Sleeps 2 + 1 child
The gardens
The entry room, and 86 square metres of it: 56 indoors and 30 of private terrace. A bay window seat wide enough for two, a king bed facing it, and a marble bathroom with its own courtyard. There is no pool at the door — the main one is 30 seconds away down a colonnade — and no lake either. Take it if you came for the 50 acres rather than for the water.
Room
86 m² · Sleeps 2 + 1 child
The main pool and the grounds
The same 86 square metres, turned to face the main pool — which is less a swimming pool than a 200-metre reflecting channel with a colonnade down one side. From the window seat you watch the water rather than the garden, and after dark the colonnade is lit. No pool of your own: that starts one grade up.
Room
86 m² · Sleeps 2 + 1 child
The City Palace, across the gardens
"Semi-private" is doing real work in that name: the pool runs the length of 4 rooms and you step into it from your own terrace, sharing it with 3 sets of neighbours. What that buys is water at the edge of your own terrace at 7 in the morning, reached without walking anywhere. Ground floor, 86 square metres, garden ahead and the City Palace across it.
Suite
246 m² · Sleeps 4 + 1 child
Lake Pichola and the City Palace
The one house on the property: 246 square metres, two bedrooms, a dining room, a living room, and a private pool in a walled courtyard facing the lake, with the City Palace directly across the water and lit from about 7. It sits where the lawn runs out into the lakefront, so no other room looks into it and nothing passes it. The butler is kept on the suite permanently rather than assigned per stay.
A short list of extraordinary places to stay.
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