Ferntree

The interior stays uncarpeted and spare, bare wood underfoot and little on the walls, so the forest through the windows does the work a busier interior would try to do itself.

Colour comes from the stations themselves, plated and moved through as the kitchen works.

Beyond the stations, the kitchen keeps a full tandoor list, a run of paneer dishes, and a corner of plainer comfort food — a rice-and-lentil khichdi, a dry potato-and-cauliflower curry — for a night that calls for something simpler. Dessert runs well past the ice cream on the card, into a longer list of Indian sweets and Western bakes finished with cardamom or dates palm jaggery.

Service runs through the day without a real break. Breakfast eases into a quiet stretch of tea and nibbles before lunch and dinner take over the same tables into the night.

Read on ↓