Drink and Dine
Laying the table.
Warayaki — fish and beef seared in a column of burning straw
Strawfire by Ross Shonhan
Restaurant
You come in through the Tsukimi Lounge, which is built around harvest time under a full moon.
Gold drapery runs across the ceilings for the flames, Kumiko panels line the walls, and then the main room opens and the grill is in front of you.
The private room is called Toyama and seats 18. A shimenawa rope hangs over the table — 7.3 metres, 830 kilograms, handmade by Nawawaseya in Toyama and the largest of its kind ever made. The table beneath it is a single plank with its live edge left on. The silk on the walls and ceiling is painted by hand: Kyoto as Japan's capital, then farming and country life under the Edo and the Meiji. The carpet runs green and gold, cut and looped to stand for rice fields and hillside farms.
The kitchen
Ross Shonhan
An Australian who was executive chef at Nobu Dallas and at Zuma London before founding Bone Daddies and Flesh & Buns in London.
A shimenawa rope hangs over the table — 7.3 metres, 830 kilograms, handmade by Nawawaseya in Toyama and the largest of its kind ever made.
