Jaipur · Kunda, below Amer
A new house on high ground, built to look straight at an old one.
The drive climbs out of Jaipur and keeps climbing, and the hotel appears on the ridge as a grid of lit stone screens above a porte-cochère of overlapping brass arches. This is a new building and does not pretend otherwise — no borrowed havelis, no invented lineage. What it borrows is vocabulary: jali cut into stone, leheriya in the floor, peacock forms worked into brass, all applied to a tower with the confidence of something that knows it is modern.
Every room faces the hills, and the hills are the whole point. The glass runs floor to ceiling, there is a daybed set into the window so you can do nothing but look, and above the bed a run of silvered peacock-feather forms catches the last of the light. Around 6 the Aravallis go from green to grey-blue to nothing, the ridge forts pick out one by one, and the room stops being a room and becomes a seat.
Taj service in its brisk, urban, well-drilled form rather than its palace form. This house also runs conferences and a 1,540-square-metre ballroom, and it is good at scale — what you get from that is competence: the car is there, the table is held, a request made once is not made twice. The building's whole argument is the window, and it wins it about 40 minutes before sunset.
The Emperor's Lounge. A brass ring chandelier opening like a lotus over quilted red bolsters and low tables — afternoon tea in the grand manner, and the best room in the building for an unhurried hour with a book.
The Rooftop Infinity Pool. An infinity edge on the roof, with the Aravallis running away beyond it and nothing built in between.
The Jiva Spa. Ayurvedic and international treatments, drawn from Indian wellness traditions rather than a global spa menu.
Jaigarh Hall. A pillarless ballroom of 1,540 square metres — the reason a good deal of Jaipur's wedding season passes through this building between November and February.
Amer is modern, and the advantage is consistency: the rooms are the same shape, the walls are thick, and the lifts work. If you have stayed in Jaipur's palace hotels and found the plumbing romantic, this is the antidote.
Every room looks at the Aravallis, and the higher you are, the more of them you see above the town. The rooms sit on floors 3 to 7, the suites on 8 and 9, with the rooftop pool between you and the hills. Book high if the view is why you came: it is the same view, a great deal more of it.
There is a 1,540-square-metre pillarless ballroom here, and much of Jaipur's wedding season passes through it. You feel that in the staffing at check-in. You also feel it on the ground floor, which is occasionally somebody else's evening. The guest rooms sit well away from it, but it is worth knowing before you book a quiet week.
The building's whole argument is the window, and it wins it about 40 minutes before sunset.
Kunda, Amer
Delhi-Jaipur Highway
Jaipur, Rajasthan 302028
India
A child is 12 or under.
Rates are quoted for your dates.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3 + 1 child
Aravalli hills
A king bed under a run of silvered peacock-feather forms, a daybed set into a window that runs the full height of the wall, and a desk for the people who are here for the conference rather than the view. The hills do the decorating. Ask for a floor above the fifth.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3 + 1 child
Aravalli hills
Two beds under a run of silvered peacock-feather forms, a daybed set into a window that runs the full height of the wall, and a desk for the people who are here for the conference rather than the view. The hills do the decorating. Ask for a floor above the fifth.
Suite
69 m² · Sleeps 4 + 1 child
Aravalli hills
A separate living room in teal and mustard, a sectional facing full-height glass, and a dining table for 6 behind a screened partition — the layout for people who intend to have other people over. On the eighth and ninth floors, so the view runs further and the ridge forts come into it.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3
Aravalli hills or the courtyard
A king bed in 34 square metres — the same floor area as a Deluxe Room, so the difference is in the fittings rather than the space. Peacock motifs in the joinery, leheriya in the fabric, latticework across the window head: a new building doing Jaipur deliberately rather than a heritage one doing it by accident. The window looks at the Aravallis or into the inner courtyard, and the hotel assigns which, so ask before you arrive if it matters.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3
Aravalli hills or the courtyard
Two single beds in 34 square metres — the same floor area as a Deluxe Room, so the difference is in the fittings rather than the space. Peacock motifs in the joinery, leheriya in the fabric, latticework across the window head: a new building doing Jaipur deliberately rather than a heritage one doing it by accident. The window looks at the Aravallis or into the inner courtyard, and the hotel assigns which, so ask before you arrive if it matters.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3
Aravalli hills
A king bed, the same 34 square metres again, and here the difference is the lounge — which out at Amer, rather than in the city, is more useful than it sounds. There is not a great deal within walking distance, so somewhere that is not your room to sit at 6 in the evening, with a drink and the hills going pink, is exactly what the room is for. Each club floor has its own pattern in the corridor; ask which one you are on.
Room
34 m² · Sleeps 3
Aravalli hills
Two single beds, the same 34 square metres again, and here the difference is the lounge — which out at Amer, rather than in the city, is more useful than it sounds. There is not a great deal within walking distance, so somewhere that is not your room to sit at 6 in the evening, with a drink and the hills going pink, is exactly what the room is for. Each club floor has its own pattern in the corridor; ask which one you are on.
Suite
156 m² · Sleeps 3 + 1 child
Aravalli hills and the infinity pool
The suite runs 156 square metres in 3 bays: a living room, a dining room with a pantry behind it, and a master bedroom with a twin room off it. The pantry is the tell — this was built for people who travel with staff, or who intend to host, and it works for both. Windows down two sides onto the Aravallis, and the infinity pool directly below, which from this height reads as a single sheet of water against the hills.
Suite
274 m² · Sleeps 4 + 2 children
Aravalli hills
Two bedrooms across 274 square metres, and the largest room in this building by a distance. The scale is possible because this is a new building on open ground at Amer rather than a palace converted inside a city — nobody had to fit it into walls that already existed. A private terrace runs the full length of it facing the hills, and Amer Fort is visible from the end of it on a clear morning.
A short list of extraordinary places to stay.
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