Machan

The floor is laid in black-and-white squares, more clubroom than the jungle the name suggests, with wood panelling and a run of pendant lights carrying the room back toward the garden.

The kitchen has run continuously since 1978. It shows in a menu built wide rather than deep — something for a breakfast crowd, a lunch meeting and a late arrival off a flight, without asking any of them to wait for a set hour.

Interactive counters sit at the centre of the room, open to view, so a dish is finished in front of the guest who ordered it rather than sent out from behind a wall.

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