Red Sauce

The breakfast card is long, and almost none of it is Italian.

It opens on breakfast bowls and bars: overnight oats blue with butterfly pea, pistachio, açaí, spirulina. Then a page of vegetables, bread and cheese, and then a Thai page — congee under a poached egg, chicken rice, herbal pork-rib soup, pork skewers with sticky rice. Eggs and savouries take 10 dishes of their own, from shakshuka to a Japanese custard with snow crab. Elixir shots, juices, smoothies and organic mushroom teas sit alongside, and any morning drink will take maca, ashwagandha or gotu kola stirred into it.

The card names its farms. Pork comes from Sampran, duck and chicken from Klong Phai, eggs from Koh Yao Noi, fish from Eco Aquaculture, goat cheese from Little Goat, pink pomelo from Suan Mae Tao, coffee and tea from Thepsadet in Chiang Mai. Even the caviar has an address, at a sturgeon farm in Hua Hin.

Lunch and dinner run off a shorter card. Carpaccio first, then a board of cured meats and cheeses, then pizza, then 2 pages of pasta — one headed homemade, one artisan. The mains run cod, sea bass, duck, lamb and wagyu, with a grilled broccoli steak and an artichoke alla romana for anyone who wants none of that. At the end there are risotti, and 2 dishes built for a table to share.

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