Mai

The cocktails are grouped 5 ways: classics given a twist, the bar's own signatures, spritzers, a page of aperitivi and negronis, and a short one to finish on.

Thailand runs through all of it. Cashew syrup from Phuket nuts, holy basil, jasmine and osmanthus, palm sugar and fish sauce in a sour, tiger's ear in a tonic, Mekhong where you would expect rum.

Before dark the card is a different one. Coffee is the serious end of it: beans from Huai Nam Kuan, slow-dripped cold or brewed with coconut water, and a Phuket iced coffee sweetened with syrup. The iced teas are built, not poured. Chrysanthemum with apple and mixed tea, lemongrass with matcha and yuzu, wild berry with coconut and rosemary. And 5 of the drinks carry no alcohol at all, treated as cocktails, not as an apology.

The food is small and made for a bar: edamame off the charcoal, spring rolls, a spicy shrimp salad, tuna tataki, duck yakitori, oysters baked under mornay. Behind the counter there are 28 gins from 11 countries, with a gin and tonic page built off them.

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